Alaska Raft and Kayak

your paddle sport experts

+1800-606-5950
401 West Tudor Road
Anchorage, Alaska 99503

Alaska Raft Admin

Stabond Instructions

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Two Part Gluing

Repairs

  • PVC Plastic
  • Urethane
  • Can be used to bond PVC to Hypalon and other rubber products.

Materials Needed
StaBond
  • Stabond and Accelerator (Item# 1903)
PVC Cleaner
  • PVC Cleaner (MEK- Methyl Ethyl Ketone) (Item# 1912), or Toluol (Toluene) (Item #1920) – see recommendation below.
Roller Rasp
  • Roller Rasp or roller (Item# 1990)
NRS Pennel Orca Material - 1100d 6
  • Your patching material. See Repair > Material on our website for all our patching material options.
  • 180 grit sandpaper (optional)
  • Lint free towel
  • Pencil
  • Container with lid (Margarine tub works well)

Recommended

  • Work in a well ventilated area (garage or shady area works well)
  • Use a respirator and chemical resistant gloves (i.e. Nitrile gloves).
  • Eye protection
  • See container for further precautions.
  • Use methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) to clean any urethane or PVC materials and use toluene to clean any hypalon or synthetic rubber materials.

Preparation

  1. All contact/gluing surfaces must be thoroughly buffed, using a sanding wheel, 150 or 180 grit sandpaper, or a roller rasp. Just buff the fabric shine off; don’t rasp down to the threads.
  2. Cut patch, rounding the edges.
  3. Clean the buffed surfaces with recommended solvent, using a lint free towel.
  4. Trace area of patch (extending 2″ from all sides of the damaged area) with a pencil.

Mixing Adhesive with Accelerator

Prepare your glue, mixing at a ratio of 10 parts glue to 1 part accelerator in a container that has a lid. Keep the glue covered while not in use.

Application

  1. Both surfaces to be joined must be coated with adhesive.
    Note: The surfaces to be joined must be dry prior to applying adhesive.
  2. Apply one thin, even coat of adhesive to each surface.
  3. Wait until the first coat of adhesive is dry-approximately 10 – 30 minutes depending on conditions. Use the “knuckle” test – touch your gloved finger to the glue) You should be able to feel adhesion without your knuckle sticking.
  4. Apply a second thin, even coat to each surface. Wait until the second coat has an even, tacky finish (surfaces should not be visibly wet). Use the knuckle test again to gauge the optimum surface condition for joining the surfaces. Time will be 5 – 10 minutes. Don’t allow the layer to completely dry.
  5. Immediately press both sides of the fabric together and apply pressure to the entire glued surface using a roller, rolling from the center out. This forces air bubbles out and meshes the two fabrics together. Use a lint free towel to wipe up excess glue.
  6. Complete drying time takes approximately 24 hours.
  7. Be careful when rolling up a repaired boat for storage. Make sure drying is complete.Note: Year round use of 303 Protectant is recommended between uses, and before storage of your inflatable.

Clifton Urethane Adhesive Gluing Instructions

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Bonds:

  • PVC Plastic
  • Urethane

Materials Needed
  • Clifton Urethane Adhesive (Item# 1901)
  • PVC Cleaner (MEK-Methyl Ethyl Ketone) (Item# 1912) – can also use acetone or rubbing alcohol
  • Pro Roller (Item# 1991) or Roller Rasp (Item# 1990)
Aire PVC Material
  • Selected PVC Patch Material (Item# 1972 or 1973)
  • 180 grit sandpaper
  • Lint free towel
  • Pencil

Recommended Safety Precautions

  • Work in a well ventilated area (garage or shady area works well)
  • Chemical resistant gloves (i.e. Nitrile gloves)
  • Organic Fume Respirator is recommended
  • Eye protection

Environmental Conditions

  • Ideal ambient temperature for gluing: 75°F and below 50% humidity.
  • Maximum humidity: Do not try to mix and apply glue if the humidity exceeds 70%.

Fabric Preparation

  1. Cut patch to extend at least two inches beyond the tear. Round the edges, square cornered patches are more likely to catch and peel than rounded ones.
  2. Trace the outline of the patch on the damaged surface with a pencil.
  3. Lightly buff both contact/gluing surfaces, using fine sandpaper, ~ 180-grit, or a roller rasp. Just buff the fabric shine off; don’t rasp down to the threads.
  4. Clean the buffed surfaces with PVC Cleaner (MEK) or other solvent, using a lint free towel. This removes any oils or other contaminants that can interfere with the glue bond. Allow area to dry thoroughly.

Application

  1. Apply one thin, even coat of adhesive to each surface, using a stiff bristle brush (the 4-ounce can has a brush in the lid). Allow it to dry at least 3-5 minutes.
  2. Apply another thin coat to each surface.
  3. Although the material may be bonded while wet, optimum results are achieved when waiting 3-5 minutes before bonding the surfaces together.
  4. Carefully align the patch and press both surfaces together. Apply pressure to the entire glued surface using a roller. Roll every millimeter of patch in multiple directions, working from the inside to the outside of the patch. This step is important because it forces air bubbles out and helps the two pieces of material bond.
  5. Use a lint free towel and PVC Cleaner to wipe up excess glue.
  6. Complete curing time takes approximately 24 hours.
  7. Be careful when rolling up a repaired boat for storage. Make sure drying is complete.
  8. Maintenance: We recommend year round use of 303 Protectant for all boating gear. Inflatables can use a coat of 303 in between uses, before storage and while sitting in storage.

Note: Clifton Urethane Adhesive can be mixed with Clifton Hypalon® Accelerator. Addition of the Accelerator doesn’t improve the bond strength but it does make it more chemical and heat resistant. If the bond will be subjected to temperatures greater than 140°F, use of the Accelerator is recommended.

Flexseal Tube Sealant

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Flexseal is a two-part urethane based sealant designed to help eliminate porosity and wicking problems in inflatables made of materials such as Pennel Orca®, Hypalon®, neoprene, EPDM, PVC, and urethane. Flexseal will not harden or crack, is not affected by freezing, and remains flexible to -40F.

Note: Flexseal will not cure large punctures or seam leaks.

Materials
Raft Sealant Kit
  • Raft Sealant Kit

Recommended Safety Precautions

  • Work in a well ventilated area (garage or shady area works well)
  • Use a respirator and chemical resistant gloves (Nitrile)

Boat Preparation

  • Work area should be at least 60F
  • Inflate boat very firmly to check for leaks. Use soap/water solution to check for pinholes. A glycerin/water solution will find the smallest pinholes. Large, high volume leaks will need to be repaired before using Flexseal.
  • Very Important: The inside of the tubes must be dry before pouring in the Flexseal. Water will ruin uncured Flexseal. .

Directions

  1. Measure equal volumes of part A and B and pour into a container. Mix thoroughly.
  2. Flexseal is usually added to the tube through the fill valve. Remove the fill valve and pour the desired amount of Flexseal into the tube. Try to avoid getting Flexseal on the inner valve piece (if you do, it should peel off after it cures). You can use a funnel to pour the mixture in.
  3. Reinstall the valve and inflate the tube.
    CAUTION: Exercise care when adding Flexseal through a PVC valve (mouth valve). Flexseal will bond to PVC and any excess sealant could ruin the valve.
  4. Distribute sealant along the area of the tube you want to seal by rocking and rotating the tube. Deflate tube and knead the area to evenly distribute the Flexseal. You will feel the fabric sliding on the sealant. It is best to take a methodical approach in kneading to assure uniform coverage. Work problem spots a little longer.
  5. Inflate tube to ½ inflation and let set 24 hours at 60°F. Warmer temperatures will decrease cure time. It is important to exchange the air in the tubes several times during this period to release solvents. Do not allow the tubes to collapse and touch while Flexseal is curing.
  6. If porosity is still a problem after 24 hours, a second application will usually remedy the leak.Note: If sealant has dried on valve parts and is creating a problem, the sealant usually can be peeled from the valve.

Storage

  • Store unmixed kit in a cool dry location. If Flexseal freezes, warm to room temperature and mix thoroughly. Shelf life is 2 years.

Hypalon Repair Instructions

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Required Materials:

  • Pennel Orca® Tube Material
  • Clifton Hypalon® Adhesive
  • Clifton Accelerator (Recommended for air holding repairs and for attaching items subject to high stress. See Step 5)
  • Pro Roller Hand Tool
  • Toluene
  • Stiff Bristle Brush – 4-ounce can has a brush in the lid.
  • Chemical Resistant Gloves (i.e. Nitrile gloves)
  • Eye Protection
  • Pencil
  • Fine Sandpaper (~ 180 grit) or Rasp
  • Lint Free Towel
  • Organic Fume Respirator
Hypalon Repair Tools

 

Warning for all Glue and Solvent Use: Use of these products can be very dangerous and can have short term and long term consequences to your health. It is important for you to take precautions and wear all appropriate safety gear. Wearing gloves, a respirator, eye protection, and working in a well ventilated area can go a long way towards mitigating these risks.

To ensure a quality repair, read all instructions before beginning.

 

Introduction:
No matter how careful you are when boating, tears, rips, and holes to your boat can occur. So knowing how to repair your boat, regardless of how big the job, is extremely valuable information to possess. This example is a 2″ long cut, which requires a patch on the outside. A tear in the fabric of an air holding area 4-6″+ will require a patch to be placed on the inside and outside, also known as a “sandwich” patch. The sandwich patch will need to be treated like two separate repairs, allowing the first, the inside patch job, to cure before beginning the outer patch.
Hypalon Tear
 
Step 1:
Cut the Pennel Orca® Tube Material patch to extend 2″ from all sides of the damaged area. This patch is approximately 4″ x 6″, for a 2″ long cut. Make sure to round the corners of the patch. Square cornered patches are more likely to catch and peel than rounded ones.
Cut out a Patch
 
Step 2:
Trace the area of the patch on the damaged surface with a pencil.
Trace the Patch Area
 
Step 3:
Using 180 grit sandpaper or a rasp, lightly buff the areas to be glued. This includes the damaged area of the boat as well as the backside of the patch. The fabric should look like a dulled version of the normal boat surface. DO NOT buff down to the point where the threads are visible. The goal here is to remove the surface glaze of the fabric, without removing excess coating.
Buff the Gluing Area
 
Step 4:
Clean the buffed surfaces with a lint free towel and Toluene. The Toluene removes any oils, protectants, and sanding particles. It also prepares the surfaces to take the adhesive. Its use is important for achieving a good glue bond.
 

Step 5:
After the surfaces (damaged area on the boat and the underside of the patch) have thoroughly dried from the cleaning step, apply a very thin layer of Clifton Hypalon® Adhesive to both surfaces, using a stiff bristle brush (the 4-ounce can of adhesive has a brush in the lid).

Clifton Hypalon® Adhesive works well as a one-part glue. However, the addition of Clifton Accelerator to the adhesive significantly increases bond strength and chemical and heat resistance. It vulcanizes the rubber and speeds curing of the glue bond. This combination of Clifton Adhesive and Accelerator is what we use in our boat factory for producing NRS Pennel Orca boats. We strongly recommend the mixture for air holding repairs and for attaching anything that will be subjected to high load stress, such as d-rings, carry handles and footcups.

Clifton Accelerator Mixture
Glue
Accelerator
1 Gallon/128 oz
=
0.80 oz

As you can see, very little Accelerator is needed and most of us only need to obtain an ounce of the Accelerator. We supply a precise measuring device and complete use instructions with the Accelerator. Mix only the amount that you will use within four hours. Carefully measure the volumes of Adhesive and Accelerator; using too much Accelerator will actually weaken the repair bond. Mix the two materials in a container that can be discarded later, like a clean metal food can.
 
Step 6:
After the first layer of glue is just tacky apply another very thin second layer of adhesive to both surfaces. Test for “just tacky” with a gloved finger or by touching knuckles to the glued area. The glue should feel gummy, but should not stick to the gloved finger or knuckle. Do not use your bare fingertip to test for tackiness. Fingers contain oils that will be left behind and effect the bonding quality of a repair job.
 
Step 7:
Repeat Step 6, applying a third thin layer of adhesive to both surfaces.
 
Step 8:
Once the third coat is to the just tacky stage, the two surfaces can be joined. If the adhesive dries beyond this stage, you can reactivate the adhesive by wiping the surfaces to be bonded with a lint free cloth dampened with Toluene. Join the two surfaces together when the adhesive is tacky to the touch but does not transfer when tested with a knuckle. Be careful with this step. Make sure to place the patch in the correct area. Clifton Hypalon® Adhesive is a contact cement, so once the surfaces have contacted they cannot be moved.
Lay down the Patch
 
Step 9:
Once the two surfaces are pressed together, apply vigorous pressure with the Pro Roller Hand Tool or roller rasp. Focus on the center of the patch and work outward. Roll every millimeter of patch in multiple directions. This step is important because it forces air bubbles out and helps the two pieces of material bond.
Roll down the patch from the midlle outward.
 
Step 10:
Use a lint free towel dampened with Toluene to wipe up any excess glue expelled from the patch edges while rolling.
 
Step 11:
Allow the patch to cure. Curing times vary due to the different temperatures, humidity, and whether Accelerator was used. The optimal repair environment of above 60°F and below 50% humidity, allows for a curing time of 8 – 12 hours. If at all possible avoid repairs when the humidity is above 70%. When having to make a repair when you’re on a trip, you may not have a choice of weather conditions and optimal cure time. In those cases avoid over-inflating a patched tube and you may need to redo the patch when you get home.
 
Maintenance:
Year round use of 303 Protectant is recommended for all boating gear. Inflatables can use a coat of 303 in between uses, before storage and while sitting in storage.

Inflatable Boat Material and Valve Reference Chart

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Manufacturer
Materials
Glue
Valve
Achilles
Aire
Leafield (post 1994)
Halkey Roberts (pre 1994)
Avon
Leafield (post 1999)
Military (pre 1999)
Campway
Hyside
Incept
Maravia
Special
Momentum
NRS E & Otter Series
Leafield (post 1995)
Halkey Roberts (1990 – 1994)
Military (pre 1989)
NRS
Bandit Series
NRS Revolution
Rafts & Cats
Odyssey
Pro Advantage
Riken
Military (pre 2001)
Leafield (post 2001)
Rogue River
Sevylor
Boston
Sotar
Urethane
Long HR (pre 1999)
Leafield (post 1999)
Star
Tributary
Leafield (post 2005)
Summit Valve (pre 2005)
Tributary Iks
Udisco
EPDM (neoprene)
Wing
Zodiac
Contact manufacturer for material info.
Special

NRS Inflatable Boat Use and Care

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Inflating & Deflating Rafts

To properly inflate an NRS raft, open all the valves and work your way around the boat in a clockwise direction, filling each chamber evenly, until it takes shape.  Next go around the boat in a counterclockwise direction bringing each chamber to pressure.  The tubes should be filled to a maximum of 2.5 psi (pounds per square inch).  After the main chambers are inflated, inflate the thwarts until each thwart takes shape.  Then top off until firm (about 2 – 2.5 psi).  If the raft floor is self-bailing, inflate the floor until the pressure relief valve exhausts a small amount of air.  A maximum of 2.5 psi is the recommended inflation pressure for NRS floors.  A properly inflated boat should still “give” just a bit. 

As air temperature changes, the pressure in the raft chambers should be adjusted.  Changes in the temperature frequently result in raft over inflation. For example, cold morning temperatures reduce the boat pressure.  The boater adds additional air.  Later, as the weather warms up, the raft becomes rock hard.  This often occurs after lunch breaks when the boat is sitting in the hot sun.  You must let some air out because this over pressurization can lead to significant problems.

Today’s high-quality rafts may take substantially higher pressures than suggested by the manufacturer without showing any short-term effects.  However, over inflation does strain the seams and can cause problems later in the life of the raft.  The greatest danger of over inflation is explosive decompression.  If the over inflated raft strikes a sharp object with enough force to puncture the material, the tube may explode.  The NRS product warranty does not cover explosive decompression.                            

To properly deflate an NRS boat, open the valves on the thwarts, floor, and the last chamber that was filled before topping off.  This will take the pressure off of all chambers at once.  Then continue around the boat opening the remaining valves.

Inflating & Deflating Inflatable Kayaks

To properly inflate an NRS IK, inflate both main tubes until they take shape.  Then top off until firm, to a maximum of 2.5 psi.  Because of the small tube size slight over inflation of the tubes is acceptable to increase performance.  Then inflate the floor until the pressure relief valve exhausts a small amount of air.  Finally, inflate the thwarts, again to a maximum of 2.5 psi.

To properly deflate an IK just open all the valves.

Inflating & Deflating Catarafts

To properly inflate an NRS Cataraft, open all valves, inflate the center chamber of each tube until it takes shape.  Then inflate the outer chambers to a maximum of 2.5 psi.  Last – fill center chamber to 2.5 psi.

To properly deflate, lock open the center chamber valve of each tube.  This will allow pressure to be released from all chambers at once.  Then lock open the remaining valve.

Mounting Frames

Raft Frame Mounting

First, be sure you select the correct frame for your boat by conferring with an NRS Customer Service Representative on model and dimensions.  Carefully follow the frame assembly instructions.  After assembling the frame, place it on your boat.  Generally, the frame will rest on the wear patches, but there are exceptions. (A stern frame rests on the stern tube of the boat).  When the frame is positioned where you want it (generally centered on the boat), attach it to the raft’s D-rings with NRS HD Straps.  Cinch tight, keeping the frame straight and centered.

Cataraft Frame Mounting

Trial and error is the key phrase here.  Generally, you want the weight slightly forward of the lateral center of the tubes.  With single seat sport frames, the oarsperson should be sitting forward of the center of the boat.  With touring frames that have 2+ seats, the total weight may be closer to the center of the boat.  This will increase performance characteristics and prevent the boat from “nosing in” or riding bow high.

Start by positioning the frame so weight is distributed slightly forward.   Then strap the outside D-rings to the upper side rails, cinching them until they are snug.  Next, strap the inside D-rings to the lower side rails or the front and back yokes for the frame corners.  Cinch these down tight.  This will pull the tube toward the frame and tighten the outside straps.  Align the other tube across from the first and repeat these steps.

Valves

All NRS boats built after 1995 have Leafield Valves.  Rafts built between 1996 and February, 1999, have the Leafield B-7 valve.  Rafts built after February, 1999, have the Leafield C-7 valve.  We feel that these valves are the highest quality and most functional on the market.

Opening and Closing Valves

To open a valve, unscrew the plastic cover.  Then press down the spring loaded stem inside the valve and turn counterclockwise.  The valve will lock in the open position.  To close the valve, push down on the stem and turn clockwise.  The stem will pop up into the closed position.  Finally, screw the plastic cap back on to create an air and watertight seal.  

Pressure Relief Valve (PRV)

All NRS boats with inflatable floor (self-bailing) have a second valve called a pressure relief valve (PRV).  This valve is a very important part of the floor system.  All NRS inflatable floors have I-beams, which produce the ridges you see in the floor.  If the floor is inflated to a pressure higher than 2.5 psi, the life of your boat could be shortened.  To solve this problem, we install PRVs, which release any excess pressure above 2.5 psi.  

Cleaning Fill Valves

If your valves are not airtight, dirt or sand may have worked into the valve.  Cleaning the valve should solve this problem.  First deflate the tube of the valve to be cleaned. Blow air into the valve, in the open position, to help dislodge any debris  Dip a cotton-tipped swab into 303 Protectant and wipe the inside of the valve.  The rubber valve seal in the bottom of the valve stem is the most important part of the valve to clean.  After thoroughly cleaning the valve, re-inflate the tube.  (You may have to remove the valve from the raft to fully clean. See directions below.)  

Cleaning Pressure Relief Valves (PRVs)

Because of its position in the boat, the PRV tends to need cleaning more often than fill valves.  It needs to be cleaned when the floor does not stay at inflated pressure for an extended period of time.  The PRV is easy to clean.  With the floor inflated, loosen the PRV with your valve wrench, turning counterclockwise, until a small volume of air begins to hiss out. Then fully deflate the floor by opening the floor fill valve.  Now unscrew the PRV from the floor.  Be sure not to lose the plastic nut inside the floor.  Rinse the inside of the PRV with clean water.  Blowing air through the PRV will aid cleaning.  Hand screw the PRV into place, then re-inflate the floor and tighten the PRV with your valve wrench.  Note: If after cleaning, the PRV still does not hold air pressure, fit the rubber stopper from the repair kit over the PRV opening to stop it from leaking.  Until you can replace the PRV, you will have to monitor the pressure in the floor to make sure it does not over inflate.  

Valve Cleaning / Replacement for Leafield B-7 Fill Valve   {Used on NRS Boats 1996 – Feb. 1999}

If a B-7 fill valve will still not hold air after the cleaning recommended above, you need to unscrew the valve to check the inside of the valve. This includes the plastic stem, spring, and the rubber valve seal at the base of the stem.  With the tube inflated, turn the valve wrench counterclockwise to loosen the valve, then deflate the tube.  After deflating the tube, unscrew the valve completely.  Be sure not to lose the bottom portion of the valve inside the tube. The valve stem assembly is in the inner portion of the valve, which makes working on it somewhat of a challenge. Push in the valve stem and twist it counterclockwise so it is held in the open position.  Flip the valve upside down so the rubber valve seat is facing up towards the hole. Examine the sealing surface of the rubber valve seat for any debris that wasn’t removed by the external cleaning procedure. If debris is found, it’s easy to clean out with a swab dipped in 303 Protectant or alcohol.

If no debris is found, check for any tears or flaws in the rubber valve seal. If the seal is defective, the stem assembly can be replaced with the B-7 & A-7 Leafield Valve Repair Kit.  The white plastic stem and rubber valve seal that come in this kit screw together. These same parts in your original valve are molded together. To replace these parts you will have to snap off the old stem. Remove the old stem, spring and rubber seal. Insert the new stem and spring into the valve casing and twist into the open position.  Invert the valve and screw the new rubber valve seal onto the stem.  Twist the valve into the closed position, invert the valve again, and position it in the valve hole.  Screw on the top half of the valve hand tight.  Inflate the tube and tighten the valve with your valve wrench.

 

Valve Cleaning/Replacement for Leafield C-7 Valves   {Used on NRS Boats after Feb. 1999}

The C-7 valve assembly includes a plastic stem, spring, and the rubber valve seal at the base of the stem. If the external cleaning procedure outlined above has not cured the leak, you will need to unscrew the valve. All the moving parts of the valve are contained in the outer portion of the valve, so they are easy to access and clean. With the tube inflated, loosen the valve by turning the valve wrench counterclockwise, then deflate the tube. After deflating the tube, unscrew the valve completely. Be sure not to lose the gray plastic base inside the tube. Examine the sealing surface of the rubber valve seat for any debris that wasn’t removed by the external cleaning procedure. If debris is found, it’s easy to clean out with a swab dipped in 303 Protectant or alcohol.

If no debris is found, check for any tears or flaws in the rubber valve seal. If the seal is defective, the stem assembly can be replaced with the C-7 Leafield Valve Repair Kit. The rubber valve seal pops onto the expanded tip at the base of the valve stem, so it is simple to replace the whole valve stem assembly. Screw the valve back into the gray base inside the tube, hand tight. Then inflate the tube and fully tighten the valve with your valve wrench.

 

Maintenance & Cleaning

Avoiding or eliminating moisture inside boat tubes and the floor is the owner’s responsibility. Repairs on the river might unavoidably leave some moisture in tubes. Leaving valves open in wet weather can allow moisture to accumulate in tubes and the floor. Leaving any moisture in tubes for extended periods can cause mildew and deterioration. To prevent any accumulation of moisture or mildew, open the chamber’s valve and dry by blowing air into the tube with a vacuum or pump. Exchange air several times to drive moisture out. If possible, remove the valve and insert the air hose through the valve hole. Let air flow continually for several hours until all moisture is gone. Proper care and maintenance improves the boat’s appearance and longevity. Clean and inspect the boat after each use. NRS recommends 303 Protectant for long-term boat care.Coating your boat with 303 periodically will increase the longevity of the fabric.

Boat Repair

For step by step instructions with illustrations see our Hypalon® Boat Repair Instructions

Glues and cleaners are toxic.  Always work in a well ventilated area with a good respirator.  Always use proper protection for your skin and eyes.  Assemble what you will need – Penel Orca fabric, wet/dry sand paper, a roller/rasp, and glue (we recommend Clifton Hypalon® Adhesive).  All of these are in the repair kit included with your raft.  Measure and cut a patch that will cover the problem area with a 2 inch border around the tear or abrasion.  A circular patch will work best for most repairs.  If longer patches are needed, round the corners of the patch to keep them from pulling up.  Lay the patch over the area to be repaired and trace around the patch.  Buff this outlined area of the boat fabric and the patch fabric.  Remove the shine from the area but be careful not to expose the threads of the material.  Exposed threads can cause problems later.  Then wipe the area with raft cleaner (toluene – available at most hardware stores) making sure that the area is clean.  Note: Glue will not stick to an area that has 303 Protectant on it, so make sure you clean it off with raft cleaner.  Apply a thin, even coat of adhesive to both the patch and the boat.  Allow to dry until it is just beyond tacky.  This can take from 10 minutes to 2 hours depending on the conditions.  Try the knuckle test to see if it has dried enough – touch your knuckle to the glue.  You should be able to feel adhesion without your knuckle sticking.  

Then apply a second thin even coat of glue to both patch and boat.  Again, wait until the glue is just beyond tacky.  Carefully place the patch in position and press down evenly making sure there are no wrinkles in the fabric.  Remember you are using a contact cement – once in contact, repositioning is almost impossible.  Wrinkles and bubbles may be rolled out.  However, if the patch needs considerable repositioning, you will have to start all over again by removing all the glue, cleaning the surfaces, and reapplying new coats.  Finally, use the roller, working from the center to the edges, and roll the patch applying as much pressure as possible to ensure a strong bond.

Allow the repair to dry for at the least 2 hours.  It is preferable to allow the patch to dry overnight, but if this is not feasible, inflate the raft to a lower pressure than full inflation.

If you have difficulty with repairs or have questions, please call our Customer Service Department at 1.800.243.1677 for assistance or email service@nrsweb.com

Many difficult repairs are best performed by an authorized raft repair center.  Please contact us for more information on a repair center in your area.

Transport

When transporting, take all precautions to keep water out of the tubes.  If you are transporting your boat inflated, bleed off air pressure so the boat “gives” under hand pressure.  Remember the caution about temperature changes affecting pressure, especially in direct sunlight.  Boaters sometimes do not think about the effects of higher altitude on pressure.  Before driving into higher altitudes, reduce pressure.  Whether transporting your boat inflated or deflated, ensure all valve caps are in place.  Inspect the load for any articles which could rub, abrade, or puncture the boat’s fabric.  Remember that any sand or other debris left in the boat could cause wear on the fabric during transport, especially if the boat is deflated. The NRS Boat Bag is a great way to keep debris out of your inflatable during transportation.

Storage

If possible, let your boat dry before deflating.  Roll up and pack the boat with natural air remaining in the tubes.  Do not use a vacuum to suck out the remaining air unless packing procedures absolutely require it.  Make sure all valve caps are in place before storing.  If possible, store the boat spread out in a cool place with some air in the tubes.  If this is not possible, store loosely rolled under the same conditions.